After making the double crossing (Exuma to Spanish Wells to the Abaco's) we had thought to enter Little Harbour. Little Harbour was not only the first good protection after the long open water crossing; it was also reputed to be one of the most quaint towns in all the Bahamas. But as we approached the end of the crossing, along with the 15 other boats we had been in company with, we heard on the radio that all the mooring were taken. So instead we anchored about 2 miles to the north at Lynyard Cay. We ended up spending 4 nights there.
The first couple days were pleasant and we relaxed and enjoyed some good weather after having pushed hard the previous 3 days. We took the dinghy over into Little Harbour twice to explore. It is a really beautiful spot. A very small village, very laid back and very quaint - living up to the billing "One Particular Harbour". We walked around, saw the Johnson Foundry (established in the 1950's by renowned bronze sculptor Randolph Johnston), the lighthouse (well what was left of it).
.The Johnston Foundary
The Lighthouse at Little Harbour
We also met Lenora, a American woman in her 80's, who has been coming to the Bahamas for something like 60 years, first aboard their sailboat, then later settling on a property in Little Harbour. She was sitting in an Adirondack chair in the shade, across the street from the beach, knitting, watching the world go by. I am thinking she has got life dialed in.
Lenore
We had lunch at Pete's Pub, a popular stopping point for cruisers, run by Randolph's grandson, Pete. Good seafood, pleasant service. An enjoyable interlude eating lunch with our toes in the sand.
Pete's Pub
Almost on queue, the forecast changed. Strong east winds, forecast for 20-25 mph, every day for the rest of the week! The first concern is, being secure wherever we might be anchored. Our other concern was moving Navigator. We needed to move to Marsh Harbour where our friends Fran and Bob would be flying into in a few of days. While the days were sunny and warm, the high winds - cross winds - presented some challenges.
First we moved 12 miles to Tilloo Cay. On the way we had front row seats to a candidate for the Darwin awards. Moving north in the Sea of Abaco involves zig zaging to avoid the various shoals, including Lynyard Bank just north of our anchorage. When we departed, heading out and around Lynyard Bank, we noticed a power catamaran astern of us. Noticed because they were going to overtake us and, well I like to keep an eye on things like that. I also noticed that he didn't seem to be zigging or zagging. Ah well, perhaps he doesn't draw that much water. Suddenly I noticed he wasn't catching up to us any more, in fact he was dead in the water. I said to Liz, the guy just ran aground. I kept my eye on him because I thought he might need help, but fortunately for him he managed to back off. Pretty sure it was a charter.
X marks the spot where the power Cat ran aground - on a well marked shoal
(Our track is the black dashed line)
We spent two nights at Tilloo waiting for the most opportune moment to continue. Then on a very windy morning (18 knots), we gingerly moved to Abaco Resort and Marina, where we planned to meet Fran and Bob. Safe and sound after a tricky passage.
Abaco Resort and Marina
Tristan & Corey, the dock staff at Abaco Resort
As we arrived, our friend Bill (from Maine) texted us that he knew some folks at the Abaco Resort, and introduced us to Pete and Pat, from Auburn, ME. They in turn invited us to a cocktail party and introduced us to many of their friends, who belong to the Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club. Each year they all bring their boats down from the US sometime in November or December and hang in the Abaco's. Not a bad gig. And a nice resort.
Royal Marsh Harbour Yacht Club Burgee
Our Stay at the Abaco Resort was just the one night as Fran and Bob arrived the next day. We were booked for 4 nights at the Hope Town Inn and Marina on Elbow Cay, and island 8 miles offshore from Marsh Harbour. When they arrived, we gave them a ride to Hope Town aboard Navigator. We also hoped that during the coming days we might take them out, drop anchor off some beach, go ashore with the dingy, etc. Give them a taste of what our cruising lifestyle is like.
Arriving at a new marina always presents some challenges. Liz and I have gotten pretty good and managing our landings, but there are many variables that come into play - all at the last minute. First, as we enter the calmer water of the harbor, Liz and I get our Marriage Savers on (Bluetooth headsets) and she starts laying out lines and fenders. I make a call on the radio to get our slip assignment and request a dock hand to assist. Keep in mind that being given 'slip 504' then needs to be translated into a set of directions. That means listening carefully to whatever instructions the dock hand gives over the VHF. In this case that was something like: "Proceed past 4 fairways, your slip will be down the 5th fairway, on your starboard side. Prepare for a port side, stern in docking."
Liz or I are always prepared to jot down this information and I always repeat the directions back over the radio. It is at that point that she now knows where to set up lines and fenders. At the helm the first complication was that the harbor was crowded with tightly packed boats at moorings - each dancing to their own rhythm in the wind. We had to move Navigator through those boats, with the wind on our beam.
As I passed the 4th fairway, Robert, the dock hand called on the radio: "I see you, I am wearing the blue shirt" I did not see him, mainly because I was trying to stay clear of the Fleming 55 at the end of the dock and a 45 ft sailboat wildly oscillating on its mooring - with a dinghy trailing astern - like a door swinging open and closed in the wind.
As I got my first glimpse of the fairway, I realized it was not going to be simple, especially as I still could not see the slip I was heading to. And it was a short, narrow fairway. Not a lot of room. It is funny how your mind processes things. In a normal approach, you would head down the fairway bow first. That is what I had been thinking. But in the instant that I was able to look down the fairway my brain concluded that entering bow first could lead to disaster. There simply was no room to go past the assigned slip, pivot, and back in. If I did that, I would be forced to back out of the fairway - or worse. I called Robert "Seems like it might make sense that I back down the fairway to the slip?" Roberts reply: "that would be a good idea".
Dodging the dancing sailboat/dinghy, I pulled just past the opening of 5th fairway, started to pivot using thrusters, then backed, threading the needle between not one, but two, Fleming 55's - one on each of the T docks I needed to pass between. Liz, acting as my eyes at the stern giving me steady and clear directions.
I can't say I ever really looked over my shoulder. The tolerances between the sailboat and the Flemings kept me focused forward while I relied on Liz's instructions to keep me clear and moving backwards. Fortunately pivoting into the slip proved to be anticlimactic, with good instructions from Liz and a sure hand by Robert getting lines secured. Backing in was the right choice.
Navigator in Slip 504 looking out the fairway (note the two Flemings)
Once we got Navigator settled in her slip at Hope Town, we did not move her again. There was no way we wanted to repeat that performance for a joy ride. And after looking at the forecast, with 18 - 20 knot winds every day, we elected not to launch the dinghy either. We might have been able toot around the harbor, but getting to any of the beaches, or other of the attractions, would not have been worth the trouble.
Hope Town Harbour
With Fran and Bob at the Elbow Reef Lighthouse
Elbow Cay is a small island with a lot of charm. The community of Hope Town dates back to the late 1700's when Loyalists fled the United States and is famous for the red and white striped Elbow Reef light house. In modern times, it has become a vacation destination, not unlike a small Nantucket, with white sandy beaches, vacation homes, AirBnB's, funky bars like 'Da Beach', and restaurants like 'Firefly' and 'Captain Jacks. The Hope Town Inn is a restful spot with yachts of all description, gracious service, a bar, a restaurant and 2 pools.
We made the most of Fran and Bob's visit, despite the weather. We walked the town and rented bikes to see the rest of the island. We made it to Captain Jacks, Da Beach, Firefly, Tahiti beach & the Thirsty Cuda (a floating bar) and played cards aboard Navigator.
We are so lucky that our friends Fran and Bob were able to join us. Those two get around alot. So far this year Hawaii, California, Ohio, Florida and soon off to Alaska. They made a big effort to squeeze us into their calendar to meet us in the Bahamas!
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